Can I Exfoliate While Using Retinol? Doctor Explains

Many patients ask, “Can I exfoliate while using retinol?” It’s a great question. In this article, Dr. Keira Barr, Board-Certified Dermatologist discusses the best practices for exfoliation in the context of also using a retinol product. 

Can I Exfoliate While Using Retinol: Background

Before we get to the best ways to incorporate both retinol and exfoliation into your skincare routine, let’s take a look at what retinol does to the surface of the skin.

What Is Retinol?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. It is a popular ingredient in many skin care products because it is clinically proven to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. 

How Does Retinol Work?

Retinol works by promoting cell turnover and by promoting collagen production. Both cell turnover and collagen production help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

What Are The Benefits Of Retinol? 

When patients use retinol their skin can start to have a youthful appearance. Not only does retinol target aging signs, but it also helps in dealing with acne. Because retinol increases the rate of skin cell turnover, it prevents dead skin cells from clogging pores. As you can imagine, less clogged pores means less acne breakouts.

What Are The Risks Of Retinol Use?

Even when not combined with exfoliation, retinol, especially prescription retinoid (higher concentrations than those available over the counter), have their own set of side effects. Retinol is known for causing skin irritation, redness, dryness, and flaking as it accelerates skin cell turnover and can impair the skin’s moisture barrier. It also increases sensitivity to sunlight, so its important to protect against UV rays to prevent sunburn.

These retinol side effects can be particularly intense when you start using the product. There can be an adjustment period during which the skin needs to become use to the retinol product. Some users may even have an initial worsening of acne, known as “purging”.

Can I Exfoliate While Using Retinol: Concerns When Doing Both

Many patients, rightfully so, worry about the potential for over-exfoliation or irritation if they combine retinol with exfoliation. 

Increased Skin Irritation

Although retinol does not technically function as an exfoliant by removing dead skin cells, it can produce a similar effect because retinol can accelerate cellular turnover. 

This means that using retinol can lead to an increase in the shedding of dead skin cells. Although this can help get you a smoother complexion in the long term, in the short term it can increase skin irritation and redness. 

Increased Sun Sensitivity

Skincare products that contain retinol are known to increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. It is possible that exfoliating while also using a retinol product could make the skin even more sensitive. For patients who sunburn easily and other sensitive skin types, this is a legitimate concern. 

Can I Exfoliate While Using Retinol: Types Of Exfoliation

It is also important to understand that there are different types of exfoliation. In this section, Dr. Barr covers the two main types of exfoliation, chemical and physical, and discusses their compatibility with retinol.

Chemical Exfoliation And Retinol

Chemical exfoliants are usually made from glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid. These chemical exfoliates work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells. Once the bonds between the dead skin cells are broken, the cells can be easily removed from the skin’s surface. Chemical exfoliation also helps stimulate skin cell turnover. 

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an AHA which stands for alpha hydroxy acid. It gently dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells. It can be used in lower concentrations when combined with retinol.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is another AHA. However, lactic acid is a bit milder than glycolic acid. This does make it a better option for patients who have sensitive skin. Lactic acid can be used with retinol containing products, but your dermatologist will likely start you with a lower concentration. 

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid is a BHA which stands for beta hydroxy acid. This chemical specifically targets oil buildup in your skin’s pores. Salicylic acid may be too harsh for some skin types when combined with retinol.

Out of the above choices, lactic acid would be the most gentle chemical exfoliant. However, when using any chemical exfoliant with retinol you should get the medical advice of a Board Certified Dermatologist. They can give you medical advice specific to you and your skin care routine. 

Physical Exfoliation And Retinol

Physical exfoliation means that a patient is using a product or tool to mechanically scrub away dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. When it comes to finding physical exfoliants there are many choices.

A facial scrub is a very popular exfoliating product. Facial scrubs have particles within the product to slough away dead skin cells. You can also buy brushes and cleansing devices which use bristles to manually exfoliate the skin.

There is also microdermabrasion. This is usually a professional treatment done in a doctor’s office that uses a machine to exfoliate the skin with a fine abrasive.

AHA Cleanser Vs BHA Cleanser

Both Alpha-Hydroxy Acid cleansers and Beta-Hydroxy Acid cleansers are type of chemical exfoliants. However, they differ mainly in their solubility and skin targeting issues. 

AHAs are water-soluble acids that work on the skin’s surface. This is ideal for dry skin types. In contrast, BHA is oil-soluble. 

This means it penetrates deeper into the pores to help clear out clogs. It is preferred for oily, acne-prone skin as it targets blackheads and whiteheads more effectively.

For sensitive skin, AHA cleansers are generally considered to be gentler compared to BHA. So, if combining retinol use with an exfoliant, choose alpha hydroxy acids over beta hydroxy acids.

Danger Of Over Exfoliation

Although your skin benefits from using different forms of retinoids as well as from exfoliation, there are risks to over doing it. Retinol is a powerful ingredient and retinoid products even without using exfoliation can have a high risk of irritation. 

Most skin experts recommend caution when combining exfoliation with retinol, as over-exfoliation may lead to irritation, redness, or damage to the skin barrier. However, gentle physical or chemical exfoliation can be incorporated into a skincare routine. But it must be done in moderation and with the guidance of a dermatologist.

Can I Exfoliate While Using Retinol: Tips And Best Practices

If you do want to have a skin-care routine that includes both retinol products as well as exfoliation, there are some things you can do to minimize your risk of skin irritation. Let’s take a look at some useful tips to consider if you want to exfoliate while using retinol.

Start Slow

A great way to see how your skin may react to combining retinol with exfoliation is to start slow. For products where the active ingredients include retinol, start with a lower concentration and apply it every other night to see how your skin reacts. 

The same goes for exfoliation. Introduce exfoliation slowly and only once or twice a week.

You can gradually increase the frequency if your skin responds well to the combination. It is very important to listen to your skin and any signs of discomfort.

Gentle Cleanser

Use a gentle cleanser to remove makeup and impurities before applying retinol.

Use Vitamin C

Using Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) can be helpful to minimize irritation from retinol products and exfoliation. Vitamin C can help to soothe and calm the skin, reducing the redness and irritation that might come from retinol use. It helps by stabilizing the skin barrier and increasing its ability to protect against environmental stressors.

Like retinols, Vitamin C also promotes collagen production but does so in a more gentle way. Increased collagen can help improve skin elasticity and firmness, thus complementing the effects of retinols.

Vitamin C is known for its ability to fight free radicals and it can help prevent damage from UV light and pollution. This photoprotective property of Vitamin C is especially useful since retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

Alternate Days Or Take A Break

To avoid having very flaky skin or very irritated skin, consider alternating the days that you exfoliate with the days you use the retinol product. You also may need to take a break from exfoliating all together if your skin concerns prompt you to. 

Apply Retinol At Night

Apply retinol at night, as it can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

Listen To Your Skin

It is important to decrease frequency or concentration of retinol products or exfoliating products if you start to experience redness or irritation.

Hydrate Your Skin

If you are using a retinol and also exfoliating, it is important to keep your skin hydrated. This can help to prevent dry skin and skin irritation. 

There are a few different ways to keep your skin hydrated. First, use a hyaluronic acid serum or product. Then, apply a good moisturizer after retinol to help lock in moisture and prevent flakiness. 

Use Sun Protection

It is also very important to protect your skin from the sun. So, be sure to. apply a broad-spectrum SPF sunscreen to protect your skin from UV rays. This is especially important because retinol and exfoliation can temporarily increase sun sensitivity.

Physical protection from the sun is also very helpful when using any retinol formula. Wear a hat that provides your face with shade as well as sunglasses. 

Get A Doctor Involved

For the best results when using different types of retinoids alongside gentle chemical exfoliants, you will want to get a doctor involved. A dermatologist can help guide you on the best way to use skin-care products for healthy skin. 

In short, the combination of retinol and exfoliation is not inherently problematic. However, it is essential to approach the combination cautiously, keeping an eye on any potential adverse reactions. Ultimately, individual skin type and tolerance should guide skincare decisions, including the use of retinol and exfoliation.

Can I Exfoliate While Using Retinol: Summary

“Can I exfoliate while using retinol” is one of the most common questions dermatologists get from their patients. There are many benefits from using a retinol serum in your daily skincare routine. Retinol can help to improve uneven skin texture, improve skin tone, help to clear dead cells, and allow for new skin cells to generate. This skin cell turnover process can be enhanced by also using a physical or chemical exfoliator. The side effects of over exfoliation can be skin irritation, extremely dry skin, and red skin. 

If choosing chemical exfoliation, lactic acid is generaly more mild than others, but remember to always check in with your dermatologist for any skin issue or question. Using retinoic acid at different times from an exfoliant can help to minimize irritation while still improving the texture of the skin over time. If you have sensitive skin or worried about irritation you can use your exfoliant in the morning and your retinol at night. If you are new to using a retinol, start by adding retinol slowly to your routine once or twice a week and gradually work your way up to everyday use if tolerated. When you’re trying new skincare products, it’s important to start slow and introduce one product at a time to let your skin adjust to the new ingredients. It is also very important that you protect yourself from the sun. This means using a hat as well as a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, because both retinoids and exfoliating acids can increase sun sensitivity.